There was a structured, geometric quality to the Mugler Spring 2013 collection, a study in sharp suiting and stark shapes that found inspiration in the depths of the sea. The look was simple and pared-down, very “i vacation in far far far away places” with each look presenting a graphic shape the felt like a play of lines and angles.
It was Nicola Formichetti’s strongest and most cohesive outing yet for the legendary French house, with a clear direction and vision that seemed to reflect his growing into his new role. There was also a distinct emphasis on tailoring, a promising departure for a label better-known for stylistic frills and a studied seriousness that was refreshingly absent here. That oceanic idea expressed itself in a soothing sea-foam green that appeared here and there and an overall shimmering translucence, as well as in the peeks of skin beneath jackets that hinted at futuristic swimwear designs. It was, on the whole, an unassailable argument that Formichetti has come into his own as designer as well as stylist.