If there are two buzzwords to associate with Alexander Wang’s Spring show they would be “effortless” and “technical”. The Wang girls sported fresh from the shower hair, minimal makeup and a series of sporty looks that wouldn’t seem out of place at the local Equinox. One might assume that all this downtown chic is just the natural vibe of the cooler than cool cast, but that is where the technical bit comes in. Wang’s runway was filled with pieces that were laser cut, laden with exotic materials and styled within an inch of their lives by Karl Templer. The perfection on the catwalk is no happy accident, even though the line remains a favorite of girls who want the “just rolled out of bed” mystique. What Wang does best is tread the line between calculated and cool, his girls may look like they don’t care but rest assured that they do. Everything about this collection was on trend, right down to the runway return of Elise Crombez
After sending out lessons in immigration and Native American culture in previous seasons, Siki Im—one of the most consistently intellectual designers working in New York today—titled his Spring 2012 collection “The Topography of Globalization.” In a study of the impact of Americanization and its attendant cultural hegemony, Im also introduced his DEN IM line, a capsule collection of three different silhouettes of the most all-American of clothing staples, jeans. Referencing the spread of democracy through the Middle East earlier this year during the Arab Spring, Im worked to produce looks that mixed the proportions and construction of traditional clothing from that region with the blazers and t-shirts that are iconic of the United States. Subtle military details like cargo pockets served as the final touches that drew the cohesive collection together.
by: Jonathan Shia
The last show on the NY fashion week calendar, Marc Jacobs was given the amazing task of ending things with a bang. Given the best of the best editors filling the seats of the Armory, but Marc managed to move the audience by showing his best collections to date. Everything from cashmere sweatshirts, Stephen Jones crafted lamé du-rags and silicone dresses appeared on Jacobs’ runway. In the hands of a lesser designer these quirky touches might seem haphazard, but Marc managed to create a cohesive look. Somewhere between futuristic flapper and urbane fashionista lies the Jacobs girl: this season there are no literal references, and as such each piece took on a life of its own. Clothing with personality is what Marc Jacobs is all about and spring’s offerings are filled with the charm, grace and wit we’ve come to expect from America’s current fashion king.
The leather harness use to be a fetish, or S&M morph style, but these days its becoming the accessory for sophisticated luxury. Its pushing boundaries, but the today’s lady is wearing it a totally differente way. No studs, safety pins, spikes, or chains, instead its very small and minimal. For example, check out the way Coco Rocha is wearing this leather Lanvin harness worn over a red gabardine Hermes suit.
6 GARMENTS, AND 22 LOOKS: AMAZING!!!
Rad Hourani has became one of most popular pop culture designers overnight with his sleek cuts, and aesthetic garnering, the indie fans in all the right places are rampaging to get to his stuff. He’s been snatching up all the editorial spaces recently in magazines like Numero, aned Vogue Russia. For his Rad by Rad spring 11 collection, the line was focused on more unisex seasonless clothing(which im always a true fan of).
He brought in crisp white accent jackets, and tunics, but overall he kept it very simple with his black palette. He mixed it up a little by adding skin tight leather pants, and leather boots something that we dont ususally see during spring and summer. Hourani even manages to tap into our need for immediacy, by offering admirers the chance to purchase looks moments after they were seen on the runway, how’s that for instant gratification.
Every season, there’s one singer whose songs you can’t escape—at the shows, at the parties, and then in your head and everyone else’s. In the last few weeks, the fashion world has been fixated on James Blake. It began in New York at Calvin Klein, where editors were shazaming the sound track as soon as it started (it was his song “The Wilhelm Scream”); then Fendi used Blake’s music, too. Today, it was playing at the Colette and Chanel pop-up store in rue Saint-Honoré, which is the ultimate cool fashion endorsement because French DJ Michel Gaubert created the playlist.
Blake’s sound is techno without all that aggravating techno. He’s distilled the genre’s digital rhythms and set them against his soothing, sort of hollow (but in a good way) voice. A few years ago, it was Gaga and her disco stick that were reverberating through the shows. While we don’t expect Blake to start dressing in cold cuts anytime soon, he’s clearly infiltrated the fashion zeitgeist. At least until September.